BUENOS AIRES

Some things that come to our minds when thinking about Buenos Aires are the passionate Argentinian Tango and the delicious Argentinian steak. We managed to gracefully combine the two and will tell you later all about it.

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Passionate and serious tango faces in El Caminito

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View over Buenos Aires from our Airbnb building

» Hot hot hot «

Our first day in Buenos Aires was very hot, the angry thermometer displaying some fierce 37 degrees. Not the most encouraging news, as the city doesn’t actually have functional beaches. This was hard for us to understand at first and we immediately asked our friend Google about the reason why Buenos Aires residents must drive 4 hours south or go “as far as“ Uruguay (the most visited beach destination, Punta del Este in Uruguay is actually not farther than an hour by boat, although very expensive) to escape the city heat, but found it out on our own some days later, when spending a day in El Tigre Delta.

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We had breakfast very early to avoid the heat

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The car was begging us to safe her from the sun

» Nothing very easy«

So imagine opening the oven door, while your pizza is getting that tasty brown crust, grabbing a chair and chilling for a while. That’s how we felt on this hot Monday morning when we left our Airbnb apartement with the plan of running the usual errands and visiting the city. And as it happened, wanting to buy a subway card had proven to be a very difficult quest, as the kiosks that should have normally sold it, were either closed or didn’t sell it all (solo recarga). Taking out cash was the next challenge as the picky ATMs wouldn’t, under any circumstances, accept our cards. Good that we have the occasional habit of following people around, so that chasing a lady (who was cursing in Spanish in front of the ATM because her card was not accepted) 10 min through the city led us to a functional ATM. We also ran into some kids playing the drums and exercising a dance performance on the streets. Did I mention that the sun was melting??

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Even in the unrelenting heat, she kept on playing

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I think he didn’t mind the heat at all

» Too perfect «

Half dead from the heat and from our encountered inconveniences, we popped into the Theater Colon. More than 40 theaters are sprinkled all around the city, but this one, reccommended by our dear friend Nanda, is the most majestic and grandeous of all. As the three architects who designed it (two of them were Italian and both died at age 44) found their inspiration in the architectural marvels of Europe, you could easily compare it with the Viennese Opera. Add 3 more types of marble, the beautiful Parisian stained-glass windows, some 3000 seats, the perfect horseshoe shape and you’re almost there. Pavarotti was actually dissatisfied with the theatre because it’s acoustics were so perfect, that he almost felt intimidated when performing. We than had a good expensive coffee on the stage of Ateneo, the former theater now library, one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world.

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Teatro Colon

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El Ateneo

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Teatro Colon

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Teatro Colon

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Teatro Colon

» Happy Tango, Andra! «

When walking towards the Plaza Dorrego, we came across the funny Argentinian cartoon characters and posed along Mafalda or the Devito girls. Just right around the corner was La Ventana restaurant which offered tango lessons, dinner and tango show and Sergiu quickly offered to stand me to a treat of VIP tango experience for my birthday. It was a very special night and we had a lot of fun dancing, watching the folklore show and eating some tender and juicy tenderloin. Even though they were more expensive, it was totally worth it. We still dance the basic tango step wherever we feel like it. We danced it in the pool, in front of a pizzeria, in the apartment, on a stage, in a club etc.

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» Did you hear Tango? «

The beautiful Sunday fair of San Telmo was another jewel that we discovered while on the way to Plaza Dorrego. It is the most impressive fair in Buenos Aires, and bursts with antiques and art booths and a lot of beautiful old architecture. Talented musicians, artists and magicians set up all along the way and performed from all their hearts. Unfortunately, we couldn’t do more than admiring all the relics because our backpacks threaten to explode in any minute. We spent one hour in San Telmo and after all the vendors started packing up their things, we reached our destination – the famous Plaza Dorrego where we could clearly hear the sensuous sound of a Carlos Gardel song, coming from the back of the square. When we went closer and pushed past the crowds, we saw how some 30 couples passionately danced Tango. The place is called „La Milonga del Indio“ and it is open for everyone who wants to dance and have a good time. At the end, we witnessed an elegant performance from two professionals, which we absolutelly adored. 

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» Lucky number 2 «

On one of our days in Buenos Aires we decided to go to a horse race at the big Palermo Hippodrome and, of course, get rich and never end this amazing journey. Firstly we asked around how the system of betting worked and a friendly old man with the racetrack program in his hand, who looked like he was doing this regularly, explained that the best horse in the next race is nr. 10. And the lucky horse would have brought us some 10 euro, but he was clearly tired that day. Never mind, the next bet was on Cabo Rojo, Nr. 2. Sergiu was filming the race in slow motion, while I was trying to see the winner through my binoculars. Luckily we got in the VIP zone and were right next to the racetrack and a very peculiar place, where you could eat and drink among 200 60+ men. But I still couldn’t find my nr. 2. Number 8 was clearly in front… In a split second Cabo Rojo gained ground and passed just before my eyes, winning the race. Oooh the roars of the crowd!! One hell of a race! And we did have a very good beer with the easy win.

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» Three years? Already?! «

For our three year anniversary, I planned the best combination of a day trip and a cool sunset sailing experience. We took a scenic train ride to El Tigre, the starting point to visiting the Parana Delta, the only river delta that is connected with another river and not with the sea. The train left us at the Tigre amusement park, which even though it was still closed, had already a huge line at the entrance, formed by more than 100 happy kids and parents. We decided to visit the Mate Museum first, only to find that all museums are closed on Tuesday and all restaurants opened in one hour. I think our faces were somewhat tormented from the heat, because the lady at the Mate Museum offered us to cool down in the museums yard with a yerba mate. It was a horribly bitter  drink but we added some sugar. And then it got just weird, so I wouldn’t reccomend it. The shade did provide us a bit of energy so we proceeded to the amusement park, where we spent our afternoon going on all the free (and stupid) rides, such as Octopus or Tea Cups. The most fun however was is the evening, when Agustin picked us up with his boat and we sailed the narrow river arms of the Delta while sipping champagne and talking about travel, politics and advertising. 

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Warning: very cheesy

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» More Buenos Aires beauty «

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Casa Rosada, where the President ties his shoelaces in the morning

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» Buenas noches! «

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